How To Repair SMOK Mag 510 Connector

NOTE: We are not responsible for any malfunctions or issues that may arise from this repair. The mod runs on two lithium ion cells and can be dangerous to a novice who isn’t sure of their abilities. Use caution and test your work before putting near your face.

Has your new SMOK Mag or Alien device begin to fall apart? First signs of issues are the tank wobbling, or the connector spinning when your installing your tank. If you are like me and keep your mod in your pocket, you have probably pulled it out by the tank quite a few times. SMOK design on the 510 connector is a press fit, the fit is fairly loose and the part gets hot quite often, with the added stress of pulling it out of pockets or holding it by the tank your 510 connector will loosen up.

Error messages such as “No Atomizer” or “Atomizer Short” “Low OHMs” and more are signs of a 510 connector that has come loose.

I have owned multiple SMOK devices and on both of them the 510 connector got loose or broke. I started to search for replacement parts with no luck. Then I decided to just search for the connector and found a very good manufacturer of 510 connectors with a nut to secure it. This is exactly what SMOK should have done from the beginning, especially since the TFV12 Prince is quite large and they must have seen quite a few loose 510 according to forums and reddits.

The manufacturer Varitube is who makes the VT-V1 and VT-V2 510 connector, but I ordered some of both and went with the V2 which is a soldered connection instead of a compression nut like on the V1.

Smok (Left) Varitube V1 (Right)

Alright, lets begin with the required tools and parts.

  • Soldering Iron (V1 – If replacing ground ring ; V2 – positive connection and/or if replacing ground ring)
  • Torx Driver to fit your mod’s screws
  • Varitube V1 or Varitube V2 510 connector (20mm or 22mm)
  • Wrench to tighten Nut on VT 510
  • Pliers
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Loctite Blue

First, you will remove your tank and batteries and set them aside. Then, remove the 5 screws from the top of the mod box. Place them on a magnet or in a cup to avoid losing them.

Gently turn the top of the mod and pull it off at the same time. Be gentle so you don’t bread a solder joint. Once you have it apart, you want to turn your solder iron on, and unsolder the positive lead (white) from the bottom of the positive pin.

Then, proceed to the brass ring that is slip-fit onto the connector, if your 510 is loose already it should slip right off, followed by the ground ring. Otherwise it may require a small screwdriver or pliers.

Next you can decide whether you will desolder the existing ground ring or keep it. I had to modify the existing one by snipping it in the center of the ring and expanding it, the nut will hold tension once the new one is installed.

Get your new 510 adapter, remove all parts and check them. Ensure the spring is under the insulator from the top portion and then screw it all back together minus the backing nut. You will have to check fit on the top plate, I have had to ream some of these depending on how worn out the hole is from use. With the backing nut still removes try to insert the 510 connector into the top plate, if it doesnt fit (try threading it right also) then you will need to slightly open the hole with a drill bit or reamer.

Once the 510 will slip into the hole, place your ground strap onto the back of the 510 same as stock, and thread the nut onto the connector. I tightened it up first, but you may choose to wait until you solder the positive lead to the bottom of the 510.

You will want to flux the bottom of the 510, and add some solder. Then hold your positive lead and solder it to the bottom pad of the connector. Once you have ensured a good joint for the positive pin, reversd steps and reinstall the top of the mod. Ensure you test everything before putting it near your face.